When we first set about planning our time in Nairobi, we decided to plan one large safari experience in advance, and then we’d play the rest by ear. This was the one big safari we booked: a 3‑day, 2‑night safari in the Maasai Mara.
The Maasai Mara is Kenya’s most famous reserve, covering about 1,500 km² of rolling savannah. It’s home to lions, leopards, cheetahs, elephants, giraffes, and over 450 bird species. It’s also the northernmost reach of the Serengeti–Mara ecosystem, which hosts the Great Migration — one of the Seven Natural Wonders of Africa. Each year, more than 1.3 million wildebeest, 250,000 zebras, and 900,000 gazelles move through the Mara following rainfall and fresh grazing. October is the tail end of the migration season with many herds still scattered across the Mara plains, though some begin drifting back toward Tanzania.
After our very difficult day day to Hell’s Gate National Park earlier in the week, I was really nervous about this trip. It was essentially three very long days in the car for all of us.
The itinerary: Day 1 was a 6‑hour drive from Nairobi and then a visit to a traditional Maasai village. Day 2 was a full‑day safari. Day 3 we would make the 6‑hour drive back to Nairobi.
The pick up was right on time and the tour organizer was there to make sure everything went smoothly and introduced us to our driver and guide for the next 3 days: Dave! The 6 hour drive there was shocking smooth: Emmy listened to audiobooks and Izzy listened to music nearly the entire way. I was impressed and surprised with how well they did, though the final hour of the drive was through very rough dirt roads which made the final stretch definitely the hardest. We got an appreciation for where we were when Emmy had to pee along the way and Dave had to drive a few extra minutes to find us a spot ‘without a risk of elephants’ before we could pull over for a bush pee.
The safari camp we selected was mid‑range and certainly very remote, but really nice. As soon as we drove up they had the local tribesmen performing their welcome song and dance, which was incredible. The girls were a little shell‑shocked as they stumbled out of the Land Rover into the dancers’ routine, but I thought it was great. They had fresh watermelon juice and warm towels waiting while we checked in, then quickly showed us to our tent. The tent was permanent canvas structure, with electricity, a full bathroom and shower — very much glamping. It was hot though, with no AC and not much airflow, so we quickly opted for a swim in the pool instead of lingering inside.
After we dried off, it was time for our visit to Maasi village. I wasn’t sure how much I was going to like this part of the tour, but I really enjoyed it. When we informed that we’d be walking to the village, Emmy dissolved into a puddle of whining at the thought of walking absolutely anywhere and only perked up once she was offered a piggy back ride. While we walked, the tribesman pointed out the different plants we passed and explained what they use them for. He shared stories of growing up in the village and what life for them looks like. The village it turns out was less than 5 minute walk from the lodge, and upon arrival the rest of the village men greeted us some more songs and dancing. One of things they’re famous for is their jumping, which they use as a sign of virility when trying to secure a wife. The girls were quickly absorbed in the puppies and kitten they saw running around the village while the men then showed us their fire starting skills and then we got a tour of one of their homes.
The house tour was one of the most interesting parts. The whole thing stood maybe 4 feet tall, in a 10’x10′ footprint. We had just assumed it would be one open room, but upon entering we immediately saw that there was actually a small hallway and set of rooms in the small area. There was no windows and cook fire was going, providing the only light in the space and making it super hot inside. Seeing how they lived, especially just steps away from the safari lodge we were staying at, was quite the juxtaposition.
The by the time we exited the tiny home, all the women and kids had laid out blankets with trinkets to try and sell. We thought about buying a few things, but opted with just giving them some money directly as thanks as we made our way back to the lodge.
The girls didn’t eat much at dinner, not finding too many foods they recognized, and we quickly retired to our tent to try and get as much sleep as we could before our full day safari. Unfortunately, Izzy woke up sick at midnight. Navigating mosquito nets with a vomiting child was chaos, but eventually she settled back to sleep. Emmy struggled to fall asleep again, finally crashing an hour later.
Miraculously, Izzy bounced out of bed the next morning full of her normal energy and the rest of us dragged ourselves up and into breakfast. The breakfast food was actually a highlight with a great selection of foods we all enjoyed and then we were off on our full day safari with Dave at the wheel. It was incredible — I’ll let the photos speak for themselves. We saw countless animals, enjoyed a picnic lunch, and the girls loved the bumpy ride. After the tough night, both fell asleep on the way back to the lodge.
That evening, Emmy complained of an upset stomach and we were worried we would have another troublesome night ahead of us, but thankfully after some pasta for dinner, everyone slept through the night and woke up feeling good. The drive home was uneventful, except for a massive traffic jam that Dave solved by maneuvering along the shoulder past hundreds of stuck vehicles. Emmy listened to audiobooks for six hours straight, Izzy to music for five before finally declaring her ears needed a break. I couldn’t help but think: have we done it? have we created good travelers?
We still have challenging days, but this was a shining example of a good one. I’m proud of the girls for handling the long travel days, and proud of us for managing a sick kid and still rallying to have one of the most memorable experiences of our lives.
